Parchamo Peak Climbing

Forming part of the Rolwaling Himal, Parchamo rises high above the Tesi Lapcha. The peak, with its elegant snowy summit, was first ascended by Davis and Phil Boultbee in 1955, during the course of a high successful expedition relying on information gained from Shipton examined approaches to Cho Oyu, reached the Tesi Lapcha from Thame, but was turned back by the steep ice step just 100m (330ft) below the top- possibly because his party chose to climb without crampons.

TESI LAPCHA

First crossed at the end of seminal 1951 Everest reconnaissance expedition by New Zealanders Earle Riddiford and Edmund Hillary, the Tesi Lapcha is no light undertaking. The western approach is prone to stone fall and demands great care, even by the most experienced of parties. Helmets should be worn, ropes may have to be fixed and steps cut for porters, who should certainly be adequately clothed and equipped for such a high and spectacular crossing

Base Camp

Base camp is normally at Tesi Lapcha, 5755m (18882ft) (see trek 16). Where it is usually windy. However, there are other possible sites to the glacier at 5200m (17060ft).

North Ridge from Tesi Lapcha

From the La the route is the board glacial ridge leading south to the summit, at an Alpine Grade of PD. There are some crevasses and, in particular, a search step about 100m (330ft) below the top which can often give real problems.