Mera And Island Peak Climbing expedition is a unique package that covers the summit of two famous peaks, Mera Peak (6,476m) and Island Peak (6,189m). It is a rewarding journey since it opens up a perfect chance to glory and lifetime memorable experiences, such as the thrilling views of Mount Everest and other peaks, diverse Sherpa Settlements, Tibetan Buddhism, and excellent views of traditional villages, monasteries, and eye-pleasing landscapes.
Mera and Island Peak Climbing start from Lukla, taking us through the remote village of Chhuthang, Thuli Kharka, Thangnak, Khare, and Mera Peak in the first phase. Later, we will traverse through the Amphu Lapcha North and South Base Camp via Amphu Lapcha La Pass and then reach Island Peak Base Camp and then to its top.
Overall, it is one of the most-satisfying expeditions that keeps you updated about the Himalayas of Nepal with an in-person experience of the Sherpa settlements and vibrant cultures. If you are looking forward to booking this package, here are some things you must consider. Have a look below!
Highlights of Mera And Island Peak Climbing
- Adventurous climb to Mera Peak (6,476 meters)
- Adventurous Climb to Island Peak (6,165 Meters)
- Explore the beauty of the Himalayas with peaks like Mt. Everest, Cho Oyu, Lhotse, Nuptse, Ama Dablam, Amphu Lapcha Himal, Kali Himal, Island Peak, and Mera Peak
- Traverse through Imja Tsho Lake, Amphu Lapcha La Pass, and Hunku Pokhari
- Explore diverse Sherpa Settlements rich in Buddhist Culture
- Visit Tengboche Monastery
- Explore Namche Bazaar, the Gate to Everest
Mera And Island Peak Climbing Detailed Itinerary
Location: Lukla | Chhuthang
Lukla Altitude: 2860 Meters
Chhuthang Altitude: 3020 Meters
Accommodation: Tea House
We will start our Mera and Island Peak Climbing by flying from Kathmandu. Our agent will escort you to Tribhuvan International Airport, where it takes 45 minutes to reach Lukla Airport. Lukla Airport is also known as Tenzing Norgay Airport. It is also the gateway to start an expedition to the peaks of Mahalangur Mountain Range and Everest Base Camp Trek.
Our technical team and staff will welcome us at Lukla, and we will participate in a briefing about the Mera Peak Expedition. We will head east of Lukla above the Dudh Koshi River and leave the main trail to EBC. The trail from the east side will continue to the dense forest of rhododendron, fir, and birch and pass several streams. After 3 hours of trekking, we will finally reach Chhuthang, where we will stay at a tea house.
Location: Thuli Kharka
Thuli Kharka Altitude: 4180 Meters
Accommodation: Tea House
We will start hiking from Chhuthang and reach Thuli Kharka in the evening. Our trial starts from the steep ridge and crosses the Kalo Himal Ridge in the Nau Lekh range. As we hike uphill through the rocky terrain, we reach Hinku Valley by leaving Khumbu Valley behind.
The settlements around the region reflect Buddhist people's culture and background. We will see several chortens and then reach Zatrwa La pass (4610m). You can see the lush green forests and the beautiful Hinku Valley down the hill. After that, we will cross Dudh Kosi and head towards Karyolung and the Lumding Himal. As we hike from here, the scenery of Hinku Valley opens broader giving you the thrills of the remote Solukhumbu District.
Afterward, we will hike for around an hour and reach Thuli Kharka.
Location: Kothe
Kothe Altitude: 4182 Meters
Accommodation: Tea House
Today, we will hike through the rhododendron forest to reach Kothe from Thuli Kharka. Most of our trek leads to the downhill trail from Thuli Kharka, the shortest Mera and Island Peak Climbing phase.
Our trail takes us through the region above Hinku Valley, and as you hike ahead, we can see the South Face of beautiful Mera Peak. First, we will reach Mosom Kharka, where we will cherish the beautiful views of Mera Peak and other peaks from the Mahalangur Mountain Range. From there, the trail continues along the ridge of Hinku Valley that stretches up to Kothe, where we will accommodate at a tea house.
Location: Thangnak
Thangnak Altitude: 4356 Meters
Accommodation: Tea House | Camp
The trail along the ridge of Hinku Valley continues on the fourth day. On our trek today, we will experience the beautiful view of Dudh Koshi River and Hinku Valley, surrounded by the views of Mera Peak. We can also see the views of Kyashar (6,769m) and Kusum Karguru (6,367m) from this location.
We will gradually climb from Kote through the rocky terrain and yak pastures. After that, we will hike to Gondishung at 4180 meters. It is an ancient settlement with the great significance of Buddhism. We can visit the Buddhist Monastery and a settlement on the west bank of the Hinku Drangka.
Later, we will hike for a few hours to reach Thangnak.
Location: Khare
Khare Altitude: 5045 Meters
Accommodation: Tea House | Camp
Today’s hike will be strenuous since we will reach over 5000 meters above sea level. Our destination is Khare at 5045 meters, with low air and oxygen levels depleted. So climbers and trekkers should take proper precautions before starting the trek. We will acclimatize and slowly ascend through the lateral moraine of Dig Glacier, after which we will reach the pasture of Dig Khraka.
Later, we will hike through the rocky and Himalayan environment passing through Hinku Nup and Shar Glaciers. We will then cross a stream and follow the steep ridge stretching to Khare Village at 5045 meters. Khare Village offers stunning views of Mera Peak.
Location: Khare
Khare Altitude: 5045
Accommodation: Tea House | Camp
Before heading uphill to Mera Base Camp, we will take a full day's rest to acclimatize. This includes gradual ascending and descending to the lower altitude for an overnight stay. Climbers can acclimatize by following the given steps:
- Gradual Ascend and Descend
- Adequate Rest and Sleep
- Hydration
- Proper Nutrition
- Medication
- Climate and Altitude Adjustments
Climbers have to take enough rest, stay hydrated, and eat nutritious food to stay healthy and adjust to high altitudes. If anyone has a medical condition, it is necessary to consult doctors before embarking on Mera and Island Peak Climbing.
Today, we will also be instructed and given a brief about climbing Mera Peak. This includes technical climbing training and the ridge structure in Mera Peak. The training includes using gears like crampons, axe, and ropes.
Location: Mera Base Camp
Mera Base Camp Altitude: 5350 Meters
Accommodation: Camp
Today, we will reach Mera Base Camp at 5350 meters which take around 4 hours to reach from Khare Village. We will follow the trail that stretches up to Mera La at 5415 meters above sea level. We need to use technical skills here as it comprises the snow glacier that is steep and slippery. The proper use of crampons and axes will ensure your safety while climbing the glacier at Mera La.
Afterward, we will return to Mera Base Camp at 5350 meters, where we will set up a tent camp and stay overnight.
Location: Mera High Camp
Mera High Camp Altitude: 5800 Meters
Accommodation: Camp
Reaching Mera High Camp from the Base Camp takes around 4 hours, and since it is one of the most strenuous climbs during our Mera and Island Peak Climbing, we must have technical skills, safety measures, and strict preparation.
First, we will head toward Mera La, where we will catch a south trail. From here, we can see the magnificent views of Mera Peak and other mountain ranges. The cool breeze will soothe our journey. However, the technical climb in crevasses awaits us ahead. The crevasses are steep at first, and it slowly opens a broad way to reach High Camp, making mountaineers easy to navigate. As we reach High Camp at 5800 meters, we can see stunning peaks like Everest, Makalu, Nuptse, and Lhotse.
Location: Mera Peak | Kongma Dingma
Mera Peak Altitude: 6,476 Meters
Kongma Dingma Altitude: 4850 Meters
Accommodation: Camp
Today, we will summit Mera Peak, completing one-half of the Mera and Island Peak Climbing Expedition. We will start our climbing journey early in the morning, and it takes around 6 hours to reach the top of Mera Peak.
The trail continues through the glaciers, where our technical skills are required. We will thoroughly climb as the air is thinner here, and we don’t want to catch altitude sickness. Ensure that you use your axe and crampons properly and that the climbing ropes efficiently help your climb. As we summit Mera Peak by afternoon, we will also experience the mystic mountain peaks like Baruntse (7129m), Haling (7319m), NauLekh (6360m), and Makalu (8481m).
After submitting Mera Peak, we will descend to High Camp first. From there, we will follow the same path to Base Camp, enjoying the views of valleys deep down the hill and far-sighted forests. From Base Camp, we will head toward Khare Village.
It takes a few hours to reach Kongma Dingma from Khare. The trail passes through steep and rugged terrains, where you must have strong physical conditions to beat the route. Similarly, the views of Mt. Everest and Lhotse will soothe our journey before we make it to Kongma Dingma.
Location: Seto Pokhari
Seto Pokhari Altitude: 5035 Meters
Accommodation: Camp
From Kongma Dingma, we will begin our hike to Seto Pokhari early in the morning. Today, we will hike through high-altitude yak pastures and the valley with remote settlements. This Himalayan Valley gives us a tropical tundra climate with some settlements rich in Buddhist religion and culture.
We will follow the steep ridge from Kongma Dingma that descends toward Honku Valley. We can have stunning views of Mount Everest, Lhotse, and Nuptse from this valley before we reach Seto Pokhari at 5035 meters above sea level.
Location: Amphu Lapcha Base Camp (South)
Amphu Lapcha Base Camp (South) Altitude: 5650 Meters
Accommodation: Camp
Amphu Lapcha Base Camp (South) is our destination on the eleventh day of Mera and Island Peak Climbing. Today, we will walk for around 5 to 6 hours to get there from Seto Pokhari. We will hike through the unbeaten and remote trails of the Himalayan location and reach White Lake first. It is the first lake that sits in the upper Honku Basin.
As we hike uphill from here, we leave Honku Valley behind, enjoying the beauty of Chamlang (7321m), Mount Everest, Lhotse, and Nuptse. The glaciers hanging in the South-West and North-West faces of Chamlang Peak is worth watching. We will set up a camp and stay overnight at Amphu Lapcha Base Camp (South)
Location: Amphu Lapcha Base Camp (North)
Amphu Lapcha Base Camp (North) Altitude: 5300 Meters
Accommodation: Camp
Today, we will reach Amphu Lapcha Base Camp (South) from the North Base Camp, and for that, we have to hike through Amphu Lapcha La Pass at 5,845 meters above sea level. It is one of the challenging phases we must cover since we will be walking above 5000 meters, where the air is thin and oxygen-depleted. So proper acclimatization and preparation are essential.
We will start our journey from the North Base Camp of Amphu Lapcha, and the trail passes through the icy glacier and crevasses. Climbers require technical skills to pass through these terrains. As we reach Amphu Lapcha La Pass, we can see the mystic peaks of Amphu Lapcha (5663 meters), Kali Himal (6985 meters), Ama Dablam (6856 meters), and Amphu Gyabjen (5630 meters).
From Amphu Lapcha La Pass, we will descend to South Amphu Lapcha Base Camp. The trail continues in a steep ice ridge, so climbers must be careful while hiking around this area. We will set up a camp and stay at the north base camp tonight.
Location: Island Peak Base Camp
Island Peak Base Camp Altitude: 5200 Meters
Accommodation: Camp
From the North Base Camp of Amphu Lapcha Base Camp, we gradually hike through the Amphu Lapcha Glacier ahead. The shiny glacier will give us an unforgettable experience while enjoying the views of Amphu Lapcha Himal, Island Peak, and Kali Himal.
We then rise to Imja Valley, a gate to Island Peak and its base camp. There is also a lake Ampha Lapcha Tsho at 4985 meters, which we will visit if we have enough time. However, since our itinerary includes a total hike time of 6 to 7 hours, we will move straight to Island Peak Base Camp.
We will hike through the Imja Valley, which broadens to the north, giving us a perfect view of Island Peak. We then pass through the ImjaTsho glacial lake, a frozen freshwater lake with perfect surroundings. It only takes around an hour or two to reach Island Peak Base Camp from there, where we will set up a camp for accommodation.
Location: Island Peak Base Camp
Island Peak Base Camp Altitude: 5200 Meters
Accommodation: Camp
The weather condition of the Himalayan region around Khumbu Valley and Imja Valley is unpredictable. That’s why we must review the weather forecast before starting our journey. And if the weather is stable, we will continue. Otherwise, we will postpone our itinerary and rest on the fourteenth day of our Mera and Island Peak Climbing Expedition.
Acclimatization is a must-do activity while resting at Island Peak Base Camp. Staying hydrated, having proper rest, and sleeping are some things we must consider during our leisure days.
Location: Island Peak | Island Peak Base Camp
Island Peak Altitude: 6189 Meters
Island Peak Base Camp Altitude: 5200 Meters
Accommodation: Camp
We will complete the second expedition on the fifteenth day of Mera and Island Peak Climbing. We will hike up from Island Peak Base Camp and climb the peak. The professional guides will escort us through the lateral moraine of ice and set the climbing ropes. We will follow the guide's instructions and use ice axes and crampons wisely, ensuring our safety.
We can experience the beautiful sunrise from the top of the Island Peak. As the sun hits the snowy ridges of the peak, it turns golden, giving us pleasant views. We can also see the surrounding peaks like Mount Everest, Lhotse, Nuptse, Ama Dablam, and many more from here.
Afterward, we will wrap up our climbing campaign and descend to the base camp. We will follow the same route to the base camp from the top, which is icy, steep, and sloppy. We will stay at a tent in the Island Peak Base Camp tonight.
Location: Dingboche
Dingboche Altitude: 4410 Meters
Accommodation: Tea House
From Island Peak Base Camp, we will hike through the Imja Valley, crossing Imja Tsho Lake. And from there, we will take the path straight ahead that stretches up to Chhukung Village. Chhukung is a Sherpa Settlement rich in Buddhist culture and tradition. Also, it is a perfect place to watch the sunrise, sunset, and the views of the Himalayas in the north.
From Chhukung Village, we will continue our journey through the remote terrains of the Khumbu Valley and reach Dingboche via Bibre. Dingboche reflects the ancient Buddhism within its settlement while giving the views of the green valley down the gorge and alpine forest.
Location: Namche Bazaar
Namche Bazaar Altitude: 3440 Meters
Accommodation: Tea House | Guest House
Trek from Dingboche to Namche Bazaar is a long journey; it takes around 8 to 9 hours to reach Namche. The route is usually remote and rugged, so having a pair of sturdy boots and weather-friendly clothes is crucial. We will start our journey from Dingboche and then head toward Tengboche first. Tengboche is a Sherpa Village rich in Buddhist Culture. Before reaching the destination, we will pass through several stops like Somare, Pangboche, and Deboche.
Upon arriving at Tengboche, we can visit Tengboche Monastery, which gives us insights into ancient Tibetan Buddhism. Similarly, the viewpoint in Tengboche is not to be missed since it offers great views of the Himalayas in the north.
From Tengboche, we will continue our trek to Phunke Tenga at 3250 meters above sea level. It lies alongside the Dudh Koshi River and stretches to Kyangjuma through the lush rhododendron and pine forest. From Kyangjuma, it only takes around an hour to reach Namche Bazaar, the Gate to Everest.
Namche Bazaar is a vibrant town in Solukhumbu District with several amenities. We can find luxurious hotels to affordable tea houses to stay overnight. The services vary from luxurious one to budget-friendly.
Location: Lukla
Lukla Altitude: 2860 Meters
Accommodation: Tea House
We will head toward Lukla from Namche Bazaar on the eighteenth day of the Mera and Island Peak Climbing Expedition. The trail takes us through the Dudh Koshi Valley, which runs alongside the Dudh Koshi River. As we follow the bank of the river, we will reach Larja Dobhan and Jorsalle first, which are small settlements with stone houses and remote cultural lifestyles.
We then pass through Monjo Village, mostly famous for buying Sagarmatha National Park Entry Permits. There is an Army Check Post, where we must go through some formalities to descend to Phakding Village. We will reach Phakding Village after around one and a half hours of trekking. From Phakding, you can view the lining of the mighty Mahalangur Mountain Range, including Mount Everest, Ama Dablam, Lhotse, Cho Oyu, and many more.
As we trek and pass through other settlements, such as Nurning, Chheplung, and Chaurikharka, we will finally reach Lukla, where we will stay at a tea house.
This is the last day of Mera and Island Peak Climbing. We will approach Lukla Airport (Tenzing Norgay Airport) and then fly back to Kathmandu. We will wrap up our expedition by attending the Trekking Agency with our professional guides and porter.
Cost Includes
- Mera Peak and Island Peak Climbing permits and Royalties are included
- Sagarmatha Nation Park Entry Permit and Khumbu Pasang Lhamu Rural Municipality Permit
- Airport transfers and ground transportation within Nepal
- Two Nights Star Hotel Accommodation to Client
- Two primary models of tents equipped with comfortable mattresses for both members and the staff involved.
- Wages, Clinical and Technical Equipment along with accidental insurance for all staff during expedition.
- Accommodation during the Climbing expedition
- Experienced Sherpa guide who holds a valid government license and is well-versed in high altitude trekking and climbing.
- Beverages Such As Tea/Coffee & Meals (breakfast, lunch, and dinner) during the climb
- Trekking Equipment Carriage Charges by Mules/Porter/Yaks
- Reliable Porters to carry equipment and supplies
- Climbing equipment (ropes, harnesses, crampons, ice axes, etc.)
- Basic medical and first aid kits
- Oxygen cylinders (if required)
- Insurance for climbing guides and staff
Cost Excludes
- International flights to and from Nepal
- Visa fees for Nepal
- Personal climbing gear and equipment
- Personal travel insurance
- Extra meals and beverages outside of the climbing itinerary
- Personal expenses, such as laundry, phone calls, and tips
- Any additional activities or excursions not mentioned in the itinerary
Frequently Asked Questions
This expedition is challenging since climbers have two peaks to climb in this package. Mountaineers must have physical strength, mental preparedness, gear, and items and permit for this package.
The total time to climb Mera and Island Peak depends on the time of year, itinerary, and the package list from various Trekking Agencies. We have a nineteen-day itinerary covering both Mera and Island Peak Climbing.
Yes, you must hire professional guides for climbing Mera and Island Peaks. Since they are challenging peaks to climb, you need technical support, which professional guides and services can provide.
Yes, you need prior climbing experience to embark on this journey. Similarly, having technical climbing skills, altitude training, and physical fitness is crucial.
You need Sagarmatha National Park Entry Permit, NMA (Nepal Mountaineering Association) Permit, Makalu Barun National Park Entry Permit, and Local Area Permit (Khumbu Rural Municipality Entrance permit) for this expedition.
Yes, you need to consider health crises such as Altitude Sickness and other related illnesses while climbing Mera and Island Peaks. Throughout the expedition, we will traverse through the high-altitude locations, over 3000, 4000, and 5000 meters above sea level.
During the initial phase of the expedition, we will accommodate at a tea house. But as we reach high altitude locations, there are no tea houses and lodges, so we have to set up a tent to stay overnight.
Spring and Autumn season comes with a stable weather and climate conditions. So, they are the best times to go for this expedition.
Who Can Undertake Mera and Island Peak Climbing?
Any climbers with extensive mountaineering backgrounds can undertake Mera and Island Peak Climbing. Since this package is a blend of two peak expeditions, it is challenging, so having prior experience in mountain climbing and high-altitude expeditions is necessary.
Climbers must prepare physically, mentally, and with gear and equipment for this expedition. Without them, it is almost impossible to summit these peaks. If the climbers have the qualifications given below, they can consider going on for Mera and Island Peak Climbing.
- Mountaineering Experiences
- Physical Fitness
- Altitude Experiences
- Climbing Technical Skills
- Training (Physical/Lungs/Acclimatization)
- Rapport With Professional Guides
Climbers must consider these qualifications before embarking on this adventurous trek. In the meantime, they should prepare in a disciplined manner to be result-oriented.
Difficulty Level | Preparation For Mera And Island Peak Climbing
Mera and Island Peak Climbing is a challenging package since it comprises two peak expeditions: Mera and Island Peak. Climbers must prepare with all the essentials for a successful expedition. Here are some of the preparation they must consider:
Physical And Mental Preparation
Since Mera and Island Peak Climbing is challenging, climbers must have strong physical fitness. Our itinerary is 19 days long, so the climb will be strenuous as we walk uphill through the rugged, rocky, icy, steep, and sloppy landscapes for hours daily.
Mountaineers are advised to train their muscles in physical fitness-enhancing activities. Cycling, cardio, running, and short treks & expeditions can help you gain the physical strength, endurance, and stamina required for Mera and Island Peak Climbing.
Besides, they must have a proper mindset to conquer these peaks. No matter the situation, climbers must be ready to undertake it and remain calm even in unpredicted conditions. Safety is a priority during the climb, so take instructions from your professional guides and apply the safety methods in emergencies. On top of that, acclimatize to adjust to the altitude you are on.
Gears and Equipment
Quality gear is essential since we have to summit two peaks in nineteen days. Sturdy boots, weather-friendly clothes, and items like climbing ropes, axes, and crampons must be in the backpack. Here is a detailed list of required gear and items for Mera and Island Peak Climbing:
Clothing:
- Base Layers and Insulated Jacket
- Hardshell Jacket and Pants (Waterproof and breathable)
- Headwear, Gloves, and Socks
- Mountaineering Boots and Gaiters
Climbing Gear:
- Helmet
- Harness
- Crampons
- Ice Axe
- Trekking Poles
- Carabiners and Quickdraws
- Climbing Ropes
Camping and Safety Equipment:
- Tent
- Sleeping Pad
- Sleeping Bags
- Backpack
- Headlamp
Other Essentials:
- Sunglasses and Sun protection like sunscreen and lip balm
- First Aid Kit
- Navigation Tools like maps, compasses, and GPS devices or apps
- Food and Water:
- Communication gadgets like two-way radios and satellite phones
Permits And Licenses
We have to obtain licenses and permits before embarking on Mera and Island Peak Climbing. The first one is Sagarmatha National Park Entry Permit, which costs around NRs. 3000 per person. For SAARC Nationals, the price is NRs. 1500 while the Nepalese Climbers only have to pay NRs. 150 for the permit. We can get it from Nepal Tourism Board in Kathmandu or Monjo Checkpost.
You also need NMA (Nepal Mountaineering Association) Permit from Nepal Mountaineering Association.
Here is a list of Mera Peak Climbing Permit Costs per season.
| Season | Cost |
| Spring (March to May) | USD 250 per person |
| Autumn (September to November) | USD 125 per person |
| Winter (December to February) | USD 70 per person |
| Summer (June – August) | USD 70 per person |
Here is a list of Island Peak Climbing Permit Cost:
| Season | Cost |
| Spring (March to May) | USD 250 per person |
| Autumn(September to November) | USD 125 per person |
| Winter (December to February) | USD 70 per person |
| Summer (June to August) | USD 70 per person |
Besides, there are other two permits climbers must obtain to embark on this thrilling adventure. They are:
- Makalu Barun National Park Entry Permit
- Local Area Permit (Khumbu Rural Municipality Entrance permit)
Best Time For Mera And Island Peak Climbing
Spring and Autumn Seasons is considered the best time to go for Mera and Island Peak Climbing. However, it might differ from one climber to another. Here are some reasons why these seasons are best for climbing these peaks:
Spring Season (March to May)
- Spring Season (April and May):
- Weather: Stable with clear skies | Minimal Precipitation | Moderate Temperatures
- Temperature: -5°C to 10°C (23°F to 50°F)
- Mountain Conditions: Less Snowfall | Low Chance of Avalanches
Besides, the colorful environment in Spring Season brings the joyous experience during the expedition. While climbers hike through the trails to Mera and Island Peak, the greenery around the surroundings, with green leaves in the forest and the full-bloomed flowers, will take their breath away.
Autumn Season (September and October):
- Stable Weather: Clear Skies | Low Precipitation
- Temperature: Cool Temperatures (-10°C to 5°C (14°F to 41°F)
- Mountain Conditions: Stable Snow Conditions | Low Rate of Snowfall | Good visibility
Another most important reason is Autumn Season brings several festivals like Dashain and Tihar. Though we will trek through the Sherpa Settlements, rich in Buddhist culture and tradition, we can feel the festive vibes during our travel.
Is Off-Season Expedition Allowed?
Off-Season Expedition is allowed, but it is not advised. Since the off-season expedition brings challenging environments and natural hazards, it can also be life-threatening. For example, in monsoon, the Himalayan Region features heavy rainfall and calamities like rockfall and landslides. Similarly, the winter season features heavy snowfall, freezing temperatures, physical issues like frostbite & breathing problems, and avalanches. All these reasons cite that the off-season expeditions are not friendly, so to be safe, we do not recommend going on the Mera and Island Peak Climbing.
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