Mera peak climbing information

Mera Peak Climbing

Mera Peak Climbing (6,654 m) is the highest permitted trekking peak of Nepal. It stands to the south of Everest and dominates the watershed between the heavily wooded valleys of the Hinku and Hongu Drangkas. J.O.M. Roberts and Sen Tenzing made the first successful ascent of Mera Peak on 20 May 1953. The route they used is still the standard route. There are many other routes to the peak, This leads to a true mountaineering experience. In the end, all efforts and hard work is paid off with spectacular scenery as Mera provides one of the finest viewpoints in Nepal. Mera Peak offers a panoramic view of Chamlang, Kangchenjunga, Makalu, and Baruntse in the east and the peaks of Cho-Oyu, Ama Dablam and Kangtega to the west.

Mera Peak is the highest trekking peak in Nepal, and an ascent of the 6,476 m/21,246 feet mountain is just one of the highlights of this amazing expedition: trek and camp through some truly wild and remote valleys and enjoy the colors of native Rhododendron forests and other spectacular mountain scenery.

Mera is an enjoyable climb peak, acclimatization is necessary due to its high altitude which is short of any real technical climbing. From Base Camp at Khare a moraine plod brings you to the foot of the Mera Glacier.

Once on the Mera La the slope slackens off, but the subsequent snow-fields may hide crevasses, so roping up as a party is advisable.

Try for a high camp as high as possible, preferably close to the rocks on the left. Summit day is then a seemingly interminable plod up a long steep ramp, easing off, then the final summit cone. It’s well worth it for the view!

Classified as a mountain less than 7,000 m/ 22,970 feet that still requires some technical knowledge, but that can be attempted in Nepal with a climbing permit, rather than a costly expedition permit. While Mera Peak requires some knowledge of mountain climbing technique (such as crampon use) it is not an overly technical trek. Thus, Mera Peak would be a good first attempt at climbing a Himalayan mountain.

From the village of Tangnag, views of Mera Peak ahead can be seen. Tangnag is a good place to stop for a couple of days, to rest as well as to make some acclimatization hikes, such as up to the Base Camp of Kusum Kanguru (6,367 m/ 20,889 feet) From Tangnag, the trek towards Mera Base Camp passes through lateral moraine and meadows. At Base Camp, further acclimatize and refresh technical climbing skills to prepare for the ascent, and then proceed on to Mera La and the Mera Peak summit.

The normal return route is via a different path to Lukla, crossing the high Zatrwa La Pass (which shouldn’t be too difficult because of your acclimatization at this point) and descending gently back to the starting point over a few days.

Noraml Itineary of Mera Peak

Day Highlights Overnight
Day 1 Arrival in Kathmandu  
Day 2 Trip preparation  
Day 3 Fly to Lukla; Overnight in hotel in Lukla 2,860 m/ 9,383 feet
Day 4 Trek to Pangom 2,800 m/ 9,186 feet
Day 5 Cross Pangom La (Pass) to Dzomshawa Bush Camp 3,174 m/ 10,413 feet – 3,000 m/ 9,842 feet
Day 6 Continue through Rhododendron forests to Bamboo Camp 3,145 m/10,318 feet
Day 7 Trek to Mosom Kharka 3,700 m/12,139 feet
Day 8 Trek to Tangnag 4,250 m/ 13,943 feet
Day 9 Rest day  
Day 10 Rest day and acclimatization hike towards Kusum Kanguru  
Day 11 Trek to Mera Base Camp 4,800 m/ 15,748 feet
Day 12 Acclimatization and training day  
Day 13 Hike up to Mera La 5,200 m/ 17,060 feet
Day 14 Climb to High Camp 5,800 m/ 19,028 feet
Day 15 Attempt Mera Peak summit; Overnight at Base Camp 6,476 m/ 21,246 feet – 4,800 m/ 15,748 feet
Day 16 Trek to Mosom Kharka 3,700 m/ 12,139 feet
Day 17 Trek to Tashing Dingma 4,350 m/ 14,271 feet
Day 18 Trek to Thuli Kharka 4,200 m/ 13,779 feet
Day 19 Cross Zatrwa La (Pass); Onwards to Chutanga 4,600 m/15,091 feet – 3,480 m/11,417 feet
Day 20 Trek to Lukla 2,860 m/ 9,383 feet
Day 21 Contingency day (could be used at any point in the trip)  
Day 22 Fly Lukla to Kathmandu  
Day 23 Depart Kathmandu  

Best season for Mera Peak climbing.

Best times to attempt Mera Peak is the spring season (March-May) and autumn season (September-November). The weather conditions and temperatures are favorable and   best at these times.

Getting there & away

This trip starts and ends at Lukla which is a gateway to the Khumbu region. This is the domestic flights are daily from Kathmandu takes  around 30 minutes. However, bad weather often closes the airport, so it’s wise to prepare for delays if flying to Lukla. The suggested itinerary includes a contingency day.

It’s also possible to trek to Lukla from Jiri  to avoid the flight,  the “pioneers’ route” that connects to the trailhead at Jiri and passes beneath Lukla. However, this isn’t necessarily recommended as an addition to a long trip such as climbing Mera Peak, unless you want a serious adventure, as it lengthens the expedition by about a week.

Accommodation & food

The trekking is with basic tea houses and food and normal drinks is available during the trekking routes how ever the climbing part from Khare – Base camp – Hight Camp need to fix the Tent and sleeping utilities as well as food and drinks need to carry from Khare all the way up to High camp. Nutritious and energizing food will be prepared in a camp kitchen.

Permits

As a trekking peak, climbing Mera Peak requires a cheaper climbing permit (US$70-250, depending on the season), rather than the pricey expedition permit required for peaks about 7,000 m. As part of this trek also passes through the Sagarmatha National Park, a permit for here is also required. You need to join a climbing company to issue the climbing permit.

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